Herschel Island Qikiqtaruk Park

Jaegers nest on Herschel Island.

An old whaling settlement on the shores of Herschel Island.

Off the north coast of the Yukon Territory in the Beaufort Sea is beautiful Herschel Island Territorial Park, an ecological and cultural jewel just 56 miles away from the permanent pack ice of the Arctic Ocean.

The Inuvialuit people of the area have always known it as Qikiqtaruk (kee keek ta ruk) or Qikiqtaryuk (Qi kiq daryuk), which means "it is island."

Despite the arctic cold and wind, there are a surprising number of plants and animals on and around Qikiqtaruk. The Inuvialuit still come to Qikiqtaruk to hunt and fish and, like the explorers of old, many visitors come to see and experience this fascinating arctic island.

Pauline Cove, on the southeast side of Herschel, is the only protected harbor between the Mackenzie River Delta in the Northwest Territories and Point Barrow, Alaska. The cove is deep enough to harbor modern, ocean-going vessels and has the added advantage of being protected from the prevailing northerly winds and drifting ice pack. Its role as a haven for ships made Herschel a key port during the last days of the whaling industry.

The waters around Herschel Island are also a haven for fish and marine mammals. Generally, arctic waters are less productive than the warmer oceans to the south. Near Qikiqtaruk, however, the Mackenzie River empties into the Beaufort Sea and its warmer, nutrient-rich waters drift westward along the shore as far as Herschel Island.

Invertebrates and other tiny sea creatures feed on these nutrients and are in turn eaten by larger fish, seals and whales. Arctic cod, pacific herring and arctic flounder are all found in this area. Arctic char migrate out of the coastal rivers to spend part of their lives feeding in the ocean before returning to the rivers to spawn.

The waters of the Mackenzie also transport wood from forested lands farther south. The northern coast of the Yukon is barren of trees so this driftwood is the only local source of timber for building and burning.

Researchers think the first people who came here crossed the Bering Land Bridge from Siberia. About 1000 years ago, there was another major eastward migration of people into this part of the Arctic. These were the Thule people. Since food was fairly easy to obtain, they were able to stay in one place for most of the year. They had a highly developed culture and built large villages, some housing more than 2,000 people.

They probably followed the bowhead whales to the Beaufort Sea when a period of climatic warming created more open water. With the increase in open water, whales were more accessible and easier to obtain. The Thule were expert in use of the kayak and umiak, making them excellent whale hunters.

Their houses were dug into the beach gravel and had driftwood walls covered with hides and sod. Remains of these houses still exist on Qikiqtaruk.

In this part of the Arctic, ringed seals are the most common marine mammals. They feed on fish along the edges of the ice during the summer months. In winter, the seals live under the ice using breathing holes.

Aside from humans, the natural enemy of the ringed seal is the polar bear. In the summer, these hunters live along the edges of the pack ice. During winter, a few female bears den on Qikiqtaruk's northern slopes.

Arctic fox follow the polar bears and feed on the leftovers of their kills. Herschel Island is an important denning site for these foxes. At one time, their pelts were so valuable that Inuvialuit hunters could buy their own "schooners" with the fox pelts they traded.

Because the ocean freezes in winter, land mammals from the nearby mainland can walk to the island. They also swim across during ice-free times. Caribou, musk oxen and even grizzly bears are occasionally seen on Herschel Island. Smaller mammals include lemmings, tundra voles, and arctic shrews, to name a few.

Whales travel past Herschel Island on their seasonal migration. In spring, they are usually well out from shore using leads in the fracturing pack ice as they move eastward.

Despite their near-extinction by early commercial whalers, bowhead whales are still seen from Herschel Island. The snow-white beluga whales often accompany bowheads in the spring. But instead of staying in deep, krill-rich waters, they congregate in large numbers near the estuary of the Mackenzie River. They are also seen off Herschel at various times during the open water period.

From late June to early August, Herschel witnesses an explosion of color. Its humid maritime climate during the growing season fosters a lush growth of tundra flowers. The variety is tremendous for such a small island — nearly 200 vascular plant species — and includes a profusion of flowers such as vetches, louseworts, arctic lupines, arnicas, forget-me-nots and many others.

The rich variety and luxuriant growth is especially noteworthy around the many fox dens. The combination of warm, sandy soil and fertilizing droppings encourages plant diversity. Mounds in the tussock tundra that serve as bird perches provide similar conditions.

Perhaps the most noteworthy of birds to live on Herschel is the colony of black guillemots, the largest in the western Arctic. If you want to see this colony, visit the old Anglican mission house. They have taken over the abandoned building, nesting in the rafters. To keep their eggs from rolling away and to help preserve the historic structure, government biologists have built nest boxes on the roof for the birds.

Many other birds summer on Herschel Island but they nest in more natural sites. Tundra, ponds and shingle beaches attract birds such as arctic terns, golden plovers, sandpipers and red-necked phalaropes. They may have flown from as far away as South America or the Antarctic.

Jaegers and glaucous gulls sweep the beaches and tundra searching for unprotected eggs, ducklings and other tender morsels. Eider ducks nest in the tufts of grass and among driftwood logs of the beaches. One of the most productive breeding populations of rough-legged hawks in North America lives in the cliffs and gullies of Herschel Island.

In nearby Workboat Passage, thousands of oldsquaw ducks and surf scoters gather in July for the annual moult. They stage here again in the fall before migrating south. You may also see rare birds such as yellow-billed loons, black bellied plovers, sanderlings and longbilled dowitchers.

Please do be careful when you are walking around the buildings or on the beaches and tundra. Many birds hide their nests by camouflaging them to look like the surrounding stones and grasses. They are hard to see and easy to step on.

The dry, cold climate of Herschel Island preserves wood longer than the warmer, moister weather of the south. As a result, the original Pacific Steam Whaling Company house, built in 1893, still stands and is in remarkably good condition. Two of the old warehouses and many of the whalers' tiny cabins survive as well. The Anglican Mission house stands by itself to the north of the other buildings, home now to the guillemots.

Just across the cove from the settlement area are ice houses dug into the frozen soil. These were used to keep meat frozen through the summer. Nearby are the graves of the Inuvialuit, whalers and police. At various sites on the island are signs of earlier peoples, including the remains of Thule houses.

Herschel Island became the Yukon's first territorial park in July 1987 through the settlement of Inuvialuit land claims. The park protects the natural and human heritage of Qikiqtaruk. Part of that human heritage is the Inuvialuit's right to continue subsistence hunting. They are the only people allowed to hunt here.

From early July to late September, Herschel Island is accessible by boat and float plane on a charter basis. You can charter aircraft out of Inuvik, Northwest Territories, or Dawson City, Yukon. Boat charters may be operating out of various Mackenzie Delta communities. If you plan to raft or kayak the Firth River on the Yukon mainland, you can end your trip at Herschel Island.

The island is often shrouded in fog, particularly in late summer, and flights can be delayed for hours or even days. Be prepared with sufficient gear and food.

This is arctic wilderness so you should bring all the equipment necessary for independent camping in an arctic environment, including water. The sun is up 24 hours a day during the summer months, allowing you to roam the island on your own schedule. Cool temperatures, overcast weather and steady winds are the norm, so be prepared with well-insulated, windproof clothing including protective hand and head wear. Mosquito repellent is essential for the calm, warm days.

Park rangers help maintain the facilities and, when time permits, offer interpretive assistance at Pauline Cove. They maintain the site, monitor wildlife and assist in scientific studies in the park. The staff can provide insight into Inuvialuit culture and history.

The park requires visitors and campers to carry out all items that they bring in, especially trash.